The same way you wouldn’t plan a robbery without first assembling the right crew, most watch guys would be loath to go through life without a lineup of distinct watches for every possible situation: the elegant dress number, the vibrant holiday watch, the rugged adventure piece, the one that’s a master of disguise.
And yet, at the same time, there’s nothing watch geeks love talking about more than the idea of a GADA watch – as in “go anywhere, do anything” – the daily driver that’s built for all occasions, able to seamlessly slide from a Champagne-and-caviar soirée to a deep-sea scuba dive. So I asked six serious collectors and dealers to share the watch they’d keep if they could own only one.
Zoe Abelson, founder, Graal: Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5065
Nobody said your knockabout watch had to be cheap. And what could be more fun than wearing a grail-level piece like the Aquanaut on a daily basis? Abelson’s Patek is a late-’90s classic. “Expensive for a ‘beater,’ but truly a great everyday piece,” says the dealer. The Aquanaut is considered the sportiest model in Patek’s lineup, but it’s still awfully swanky. Plus, Abelson’s choice comes with built-in versatility: “I love the simplicity of this watch, but you can jazz it up with different coloured rubber straps.”

This modern diver embodies all the qualities of a GADA watch. “Beach, mountains, lake, water sports. No fuss. No date,” says Davidoff, a renowned vintage dealer. “Just the essentials. Superlight and simple.” I can attest to the watch’s do-it-all bona fides—the Pelagos 39 is the piece I personally wear the most.
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