Remember me
Los Angeles is one of those cities that needs no introduction. We’ve seen it countless times in films; we recognise it even if we’ve never set foot there. Its energy and magnetism make it unmistakable, a city that feels familiar and elusive at the same time.
When a metropolis is built on layers of cultures and traditions, gastronomy becomes one of the most direct ways of understanding it. Los Angeles’ culinary scene is dynamic, expansive and constantly evolving, and much of its singularity is shaped by places with strong identities of their own, one of its most vital nodes being Santa Monica’s farmers market.
The Santa Monica Farmers Market is one of California’s great temples of produce and a vital meeting point for farmers, chefs and people who simply care deeply about food. Here, fruit and vegetables are found at their absolute peak, often harvested just hours earlier: heirloom tomatoes, winter squashes, citrus fruits with almost floral aromatics, bitter leaves and herbs rarely seen on supermarket shelves. But there is much more. Farm eggs, single-origin honeys, nuts, mushrooms, edible flowers and artisan breads sit alongside small producers of cheeses and fermented goods. A sensory landscape of colour and aroma that stimulates creativity in an almost reverential way. And a must-visit place for Josiah Citrin.
“The market is a sacred place for me and it truly brightens my week. Simply walking through it and seeing the beauty of the produce is completely reinvigorating”, says the chef.
A relationship that comes from afarEvery Wednesday morning, Josiah Citrin comes here with purpose. He moves through the stalls selecting whatever catches his attention for its freshness, aroma or sense of novelty.
“The ingredients themselves are a constant source of inspiration when I am creating new dishes. We always begin with what is in season, allowing the produce to lead, and then introduce the proteins to complete the dish. Each season brings its own energy and a fresh wave of inspiration”, he adds.
Citrin was coming to the Santa Monica market long before he became a chef, accompanying his mother as she sourced produce for her catering business. Today, he is something of a local legend. He knows everyone, greets friends and suppliers, pauses for conversations, yet nothing distracts him from his main task: finding the very best product available, prioritising flavour and quality above all else. For him, the market is pure energy.
“This market is a social experience, not just a place to shop,” Citrin notes. “Anyone who loves food should experience it at least once.”
The acclaimed chef behind Citrin and Mélisse has spent more than three decades shaping the identity of Los Angeles’ contemporary fine dining scene, and it is here that the process begins, before it reaches his restaurants
At Mélisse, open since 1999 and awarded two Michelin stars, his market selection is transformed into refined French-American haute cuisine driven by product and precision.
“Mélisse first opened 27 years ago, yet today it feels like a completely new blank canvas, with only the name tying it to the past. It is my dream restaurant, an intimate five-table only experience where we push the limits of execution and flavour, in what feels like a backstage rock and roll studio. The kitchen and dining room move as one, driven by vinyl-only music and an uncompromising creative spirit,” says Citrin.
At the buzzing 99-seat Citrin, holder of one Michelin star at the very same address as Mélisse, those same ingredients take shape as casual contemporary Californian cooking, more relaxed than Mélisse yet executed at an exceptionally high level.
“Although Citrin opened only six years ago, it feels deeply connected to the history of Mélisse. It carries the spirit of our early years, featuring signature dishes like Egg Caviar and Lobster Bolognese, and offers a more accessible, social experience, with a large bar, small plates at happy hour and a relaxed, welcoming energy,” Citrin explains.
Santa Barbara spot prawn “minestrone”, a Mélisse dish with summer beans, yellow oyster mushrooms and lemon thyme. Josiah Citrin transforms fresh market produce into a dish driven by flavour and technique. Bottom left, at Mélisse,vinyl sets the rhythm of the dining room. Bottom right, Dirty Chicken for Two at Citrin with roasted chicken jus, potato mousseline, Nantes carrot, Brussels sprouts and morels. Photos courtesy of Mélisse & Citrin restaurants.
Where the city eats
If the culinary heart of Los Angeles beats at the Santa Monica Farmers Market, its arteries feed a vast, ever-moving organism. Citrin and Mélisse are essential stops for fine dining devotees, but Los Angeles is not a city that lives on haute cuisine alone.
In a place where new cafés, diners, bakeries and restaurants open almost daily, we’ve selected a handful of more informal addresses across the county that are well worth seeking out. As René Redzepi, who will soon bring Noma to the city as a pop-up, once said: “When you arrive in LA as a foreigner, you discover people from everywhere. This is the city where the world lives.”
And, we might add, where it eats.
Citrin & Mélisse. 1104 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, CA
Where to eat and drink: Josiah Citrin Reccomendations
Dunsmoor. 3501 Eagle Rock Blvd, Los Angeles, CA
Amazing restaurant where Chef Brian is cooking some of the tastiest food in LA .
Antico Nuovo. 4653 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA
Chef Chad’s restaurant is spot on delicious Italian with a warm and welcoming atmosphere and vibe.
Bay Cities Italian Deli & Bakery. 1517 Lincoln Blvd, Santa Monica, CA
My guilty pleasure is a God mother with the works and spicy peppers from here.
Broken Spanish Commodore. 12565 Washington Blvd, Los Angeles, CA
Chef Ray Garcia’s new more casual spot to his old spot that Broken Spanish that closed in 2019. My favorites are Refried Lentils: Black Lentils, Quesillo, Epazote. Tamal en Cazuela: Roasted Mushroom, Spinach, Honeynut Squash, Salsa Tatemada. Barbacoa Guajillo: Rubbed Lamb Neck, Onion, Cilantro, Consomé and Chicharrón: Crispy Pork Belly, Garlic Mojo, Pickled Red Cabbage.
Pizzeria Sei. 8781 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA
Delicious crust. just the right crunch. Plus great quality ingredients.
Petitgrain Boulangerie. 1209 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, CA
Clémence is putting out the best baked goods in LA from her croissants to her seasonal tarts. Everything is awesome. I adore her commitment to only using the finest and sustainable ingredients available.
Old Lighting. 2905 Washington Blvd, Marina Del Rey, CA
A speak way in the back of Scoopa Italian Roots. They have an amazing collection of all spirits in a mid century decor. Best part is they take your phone when you go in!
Capo. 1810 Ocean Ave, Santa Monica, CA
Best date night: great atmosphere and vibe sitting at the bar next to the wood burning fireplace grill. I always order Tri Colore Salad, a Bone in New York and the most decadent chocolate soufflé (restaurant not inexpensive).
Bonus: My favorite cocktail at the moment is Ranch Water: Fortaleza Tequila, Limee Juice and Soda Water best with Topo Chico.
Other places that worths a visit:
Harun Coffee. 4336 Degnan Blvd, Los Angeles, CA
SI! Mon. 60 N Venice Blvd, Venice, CA 90291
Two Hommés. 902 N La Brea Ave, Inglewood, CA
Tev’s Family Kitchen (Jamaican cuisine). 1905 W 48th St, Los Angeles, CA
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