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Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2026 is officially over and out, riding the residual adrenaline of the Winter Olympics to transform the city, this time, into a fashion arena. With 52 runway shows on the calendar, the industry was focused on big transitions that see some of the world’s most influential designers taking their first steps into global luxury names.
The week opened with a homecoming as Maria Grazia Chiuri delivered her debut collection as Fendi’s chief creative officer. Afterwards, the momentum shifted toward Marni, where Meryll Rogge introduced her inaugural vision for the label. After that, all eyes were on the week’s most anticipated milestone: Demna’s first physical runway show for Gucci. While these debuts anchor the schedule and keep us scrolling, the “sophomore surge” is equally compelling, including Simone Bellotti at Jil Sander, David Koma at Blumarine and Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta.
Elsewhere, we loved GCDS‘ 10th anniversary show, Ferrari Style‘s high-speed silhouettes and AVAVAV‘s transition to the presentation format. From big collaborations to impressive debuts, continue reading for our favorite FW26 showcases, so far.
Before you go, check out our London Fashion Week highlights.
50,000 Reasons to Love Diesel
For FW26, Diesel staged a show as the aftermath of a five-decade party. Creative director Glenn Martens mined the house archive, surrounding the runway with 50,000 original pieces that traced the label’s hedonistic history back to 1978. The clothes captured the aura of the “morning after.” Denim was treated with resin to hold heavy creases as if worn for days… and nights on end. Jersey tops were built in double layers so they sat twisted on the body, while fur coats couldn’t decide what color they were, in the best way possible. For accessories and footwear, the new D One bag came with transformable buckle straps, while sculpted pumps, boots and the debut Closer watch pushed Diesel further into statement territory.
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Fendi Debut
Last season, MM6 Maison Margiela hit the city streets. For FW26? It arrived at Milano Centrale, the city’s largest train station, to present a collection packed with urgency. Models moved with the pace of commuters in a hurry, coats slung, collars up, as if departure boards were about to flicker. An equestrian current ran throughout the collection, a subtle nod to the Year of the Horse. Sweaters and crisp collared shirts were emblazoned with horse motifs, some in portrait mode, others distorted and abstracted as if caught mid gallop. Longline tailoring carried a saddle sharpness through the shoulder, while cinched waists and elongated silhouettes suggested riding coats reimagined for the urban rider.
Jil Sander’s Fabric in Excess
For his second collection at Jil Sander, creative director Simone Bellotti turned to Hamburg and the intimacy of Anders Petersen’s Café Lehmitz portraits. The result was tailoring cut slim and exact, the house signature, of course. But cutting through this slimness, there was a subtle experimentation with fabric, some pieces voluminous like duvets, offering movement without tipping into true oversize territory. Collars slipped from beneath coats, jackets flared gently at the back, dresses exposed the shoulder and skirts opened with curved slits. The collection was assuredly minimal. At Jil Sander, minimalism never reads as boring.
BOSS FW26 leaned into heat this season, and the color story was a real standout. Burnt orange suede came thick and smoky, while plum and molten gold garments grabbed serious attention. Sweater dresses skimmed the frame, fortified by tall gloves and even taller boots. Turtle necks layered over shirting gave fun day-to-night styling with intention. As for accessories, look close and you’ll see a calla lily gracing the outerwear of certain looks, both men’s and women’s wear. A little party, a little romantic… this collection was a joy to see IRL.
In one of the most talked-about shows of the season thus far, Prada FW26 prioritized the intimacy of styling over the volume of a wardrobe. Co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons stripped the traditional runway format to its core by presenting a hyper-edited cast of only 15 models, including Bella Hadid and Achol Ayor, to cycle through a total of 60 looks. Each model completed four distinct laps, shedding an outer layer with every pass to reveal a new look underneath. This approach captures a candid, honest reality of dressing today, across identities, roles, environments, and selves.
Meryll Rogge’s Marni Debut
Meryll Rogge’s inaugural collection for Marni was a CMF whiplash in the best way possible. Moving away from nostalgia, her FW26 presentation blended rugged Alpine influences with sophisticated tailoring and what felt like an infinite offering of color combos. The result felt instinctive and alive. Elsewhere, the footwear was a true standout from the brand’s new chapter, featuring reengineered iterations of the signature Fussbett sandal. High-impact shoes and utilitarian detailing bridged mountain pragmatism with the pleasure of dressing now. That was truly the moral of this debut; utility and joy are not always opposites but partners in the same wardrobe, just ask Rogge.
Onitsuka Tiger may be famed for its footwear, but each season, the brand reminds us that its clothing is more than worth talking about, too. For FW26, the brand explored “The Aesthetics of Ma,” a Japanese concept which describes “a meaningful space between two elements.” Looking at the space between everyday dressing and occasionwear, the collection bridged the gap between the two by merging sportswear, workwear, casualwear and formalwear together as one. Of course, the footwear was a big plus, debuting chic new sneaker heels and hybrid boots that, already, we really can’t get enough of.
You know it’s going to be a good show when Alicia Keys and Michele Lamy are sitting together in the front row, there’s no denying that. But there’s a lot more to Ferrari than flashy car motifs and celebrity attendees. The brand’s dedication to craftsmanship, true luxury and honestly just making f-cking good clothes, cannot be underestimated. Along with debuting shoes that looked like skin and quite literally making it rain, FW26 gave us classic tailoring, cinched waists and gradient textures, all designed under the guise of creating second skins. Exploring themes of empathy, connection and poise, the designer’s 10th show for the brand celebrated plurality and unity.
Demna’s highly anticipated Gucci debut began in a museum-like space, decorated with giant marble statues, described by Demna as a representation of how he views “this incredible house.” High-profile designers like Alessandro Michele and Donatella Versace sat front row, along with names like Paris Hilton, Romeo Beckham, Demi Moore, and Shawn Mendes. Across what felt like 100 looks, Demna enlisted the likes of Alex Consani, Amelia Gray, Sydney Carlson, Gabbriette and Emily Ratajkowski, plus newcomers like Fakemink (who took out his phone to text halfway through his runway debut) and Nettspend, an 18-year-old rapper that the designer discovered online.
For FW26, Beate Karlsson totally reversed the traditional runway format, instead allowing attendees to become the model and the subject for once. Titled “The Female Gaze,” the showcase saw guests enter one-by-one, while models dressed in the new collection were positioned in two parallel lines, creating a “living runway” which you walked through.
Building on her poignant Bottega Veneta debut from last season and bringing the ultimate drama to Milan, Louise Trotter presented a masterclass in movement and texture, evolving her tactile furs with new colorways and silhouettes, whilst also showcasing classic tailoring in unexpected fabrications. Pillowy suits walked down the runway alongside fuzzy T-shirts, textured trousers and belted leather trench coats worn with casual knitted beanies.